Stupefying Stupas (Yangon & Bagan)

Myanmar was one of the first countries that we added to the list when planning our trip. Isolated from the world for decades under a military dictatorship, the country only began to open up to tourists in 2011 when the ruling junta began to relinquish some of its power and foreign countries started to reduce sanctions. Several of our friends have visited in recent years and enjoyed themselves, and we were excited to witness this rapidly transforming society for ourselves.

As our visit neared, however, we began to have second thoughts. We heard that due to various logistical challenges and government restrictions most travelers congregate in the same few places which makes parts of the country very touristy.  The infrastructure was portrayed as a disaster, and as we started booking we found that hotels were horribly expensive by Southeast Asian standards. It proved impossible to make any detailed plans online since the pace of change meant that any advice we found was already wildly outdated. Add to that the fact that the military still controls much of the political power and economic activity in the country and that tourism revenues often end up in the pocket of the junta. As we got closer to our departure date from Thailand we discussed skipping Myanmar entirely, or at least cutting our visit very short.

Ultimately we did decide to go through with the visit, justifying it on the grounds that since the country was changing so quickly this truly was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. And fortunately so, since Myanmar ended up being one of the highlights of our entire trip. While things were horribly disorganized, somewhat unsanitary and at times inexplicably expensive, we reveled in the opportunity to experience a culture that was different in so many ways from anything we’d seen before. Most importantly, the people there were by far the nicest we’ve met anywhere in the world, and we were truly bowled over by how welcomed we felt.

Passport: check. Airplane tickets: check. Visa: check. Travel guide: check. Most importantly, corn stick: check. Fully prepared to depart from Thailand

First Impressions

We had heard that Myanmar was a blend of India, Thailand, and China, and on some level this was a great starting point for understanding things, although only a very crude one. For us, the India impression was by far the most striking – despite staying in what was nominally China Town, our first days in Yangon were filled with familiar smells of roasting spices, chaotic street markets, and bright colors.

We wasted no time in curing the massive paratha withdrawal that had plagued us since departing India months before

Aside from the different lettering and the driving on the right, this could just as easily be Kolkata on a foggy morning

Like in India, many people chew betel leaves which produce copious quantities of blood-colored phlegm that make roadsides look like they’ve all hosted fistfights. While we applaud the corporate sponsorship of public cleanliness initiatives, we doubt that English and Japanese tourists contribute much to the problem

Yangon is a city that brims with motivated, energetic people, but bears the legacy of decades of scarce resources and underinvestment, not to mention the indignity of being replaced as Myanmar’s capital in 2006. This makes for a fascinating blend of buildings – majestic colonial mansions and administrative offices have mostly been preserved and repurposed over time, leaving much of the city’s architecture unchanged from the 1920s. Adding a Southeast Asian flavor to things, Myanmar has historically shared Thailand’s passion for Buddhist temples, and it’s rare to see a block in the city without some sort of pagoda. Given the general disrepair of the surrounding buildings, the effect of Yangon’s glittering stupas is all the more striking.

The Independence Monument near the City Hall serves as the somewhat militaristic centerpiece of a massive park / critical selfie spot for locals, and provides a short of space-age-y offset to the surrounding square – which has changed little over the past century

What’s most fascinating for tourists like us is how integrated into regular life the temples are – people seem to filter in and out regularly on their way to work and when going about their daily errands. This famous 2000-year-old pagoda sits in the middle of a busy roundabout

Fortunately for our now-raging caffeine addictions, links with Thailand extend to more than just temples

As massive street market aficionados at this point, we couldn’t wait to dive into the bustle of Yangon. We were not disappointed in the least, and had a great time exploring the nooks and crannies of the city in search of tasty morsels and entertaining items for sale.

Studying one of our first meals before taking the plunge – we’d heard hygiene standards were a bit looser in Myanmar so we started off safe with fried rice

Over the course of our time in Southeast Asia, the chairs at street markets dwindled in size until we got to true dollhouse furniture

About a mile of excellent street cafes are set up along the waterfront every evening making it easy to gain weight while walking

Going to the movies, Myanmar style

Unlike most places we visited, numbers are different in Myanmar, which threw us a bit at the start

A Masterclass in Hospitality

We were absolutely stunned by how helpful, friendly, and trustworthy people were, even with tourists. Our first intro to this was when Ethan tried to pay our taxi driver from the airport with the wrong bills (10,000 kyat rather than 1,000 kyat due to the numbers thing). The driver could have easily taken them and left, but instead he spent a minute teaching us the value of the different bills and coins.

And while we’ve had many random conversations with people around the world as we’ve traveled, rarely have they been so immediately warm as those in Myanmar. Even a quick chat with someone at the public workout park invariably became a 15 minute get-to-know-you conversation that culminated in an impromptu gymnastics lesson on the pullup bars.

The parks in Yangon are great and, like everywhere else, crammed full of young people sitting around on smartphones

An opportunistic visit to the National Museum became another reminder of how utterly great the people are in Myanmar. We’d heard the museum was disorganized and poorly labeled, so we were partly just seeking some respite from the searing heat outside, but like most people we knew embarrassingly little about the nation’s history so we figured we might be able to learn a few things once we stopped sweating. What transpired was a four-hour private tour led by a wonderfully friendly volunteer, who went to great lengths to not only catch us up on a few thousand years of history but also offer us advice for the rest of our trip, personal anecdotes, and lessons in Burmese. She was utterly horrified when we tried to tip her.

The throne of the Burmese King, adorned with symbolic animals and designed to intimidate even the most hardened visitor to the monarch

Myanmar is composed of more than 100 separate ethnic groups, and most possesses their own distinctive art, mythology, and symbols, so the ethnic section of the National Museum in many ways resembled a cabinet of curiosities

These are the puppets we’d least like to encounter in a darkened alleyway

Temple Time

Yangon is packed with temples, but Shwedagon Pagoda quite literally towers above the rest. It’s by far the most sacred Buddhist pagoda in Myanmar, and attracts many thousands of visitors from all over the country on a daily basis. It’s also a focal point for city life, and its prominent position means that it has attracted plenty of attention as a stage for political protest as well as a makeshift fortress for invading nations in centuries past. Notably, it was one of the few sites that Obama chose to visit during the first ever presidential visit to Myanmar in 2012, which signaled a critical turning point in US-Myanmar relations.

Naturally, sacred sites carry a strict dress code, and Ethan’s regular uniform at this point in the trip of threadbare shorts wouldn’t quite cut it. Fortunately for us, our helpful hotel offered to lend him a longyi. Standard wear for the typical Myanmar gentleman (and also common in parts of India), a longyi is a traditional garment consisting of a big tube of cloth. You step inside the tube and then wrap it around your waist and tie it off. Apparently the knot is quite important, and people will judge each other based on its size, position, and quality. Advanced wearers of the longyi will tie it in such a way that it creates a smartphone pocket. Women wear them too, but theirs are a lot more sari-like in both pattern and length, and they typically pin theirs around their waists. We also saw people making heavy use of these versatile garments for modesty purposes in public river bathing situations.

Ethan enjoying some extra ventilation in the heat

Although it’s impossible to run or frankly to do any sort of sporting movement in them, longyis apparently even come in “active wear” versions

The “Golden Pagoda” itself was utterly awe-inspiring. Standing at 99 meters, it’s surrounded by a huge complex of shrines and ornate sculptures and, in common with some other pilgrimage sites we’ve visited, the intensity of emotion around us was palpable.

Throughout our visit people were constantly offering to help Ethan retie his longyi on account of his terrible knot

The pagoda is covered with real gold, which is traditionally donated by citizens

Fantastically detailed carvings hint at Myanmar and Thailand’s close history – many of the temples in Chiang Mai were directly influenced by monks invited across from Burma

You’re supposed to pour water over the statue corresponding to the day of your birth – one cup per year. Arm fatigue weeds out the truly venerable

A buddhist take on Cerberus, perhaps?

The illuminated brilliance of the Shwedagon Pagoda serves as a great reference beacon for those lost at night

Colonial Legacy

Until the early 19th century, Burma was a rich country, and unsurprisingly it was an aggressive military power. In fact, Burmese moves to take over parts of Assam prompted the first hostile interactions between Burma and Great Britain. It was fear of French occupation, however, which led to a full takeover by the British government in 1885. Burma became a province of British India – despite Burma’s proud, independent history – and over the succeeding decades the nation was changed beyond recognition. Although it prospered economically, better jobs were reserved for Indian immigrant workers, and among Burmese nationals certain minority groups were favored in a classic “divide and rule” strategy. Although the colonial administration left a swathe of modern railroads, grand buildings, and well-organized schools in its wake, it also left the country flailing without an experienced administration, a proven system of governance, or even a clear sense of nationhood, all of which contributed to the manifold difficulties that Myanmar has faced since independence.

Exploring the streets of Yangon today, it’s hard to escape signs of British influence. While many buildings are now crumbling, some – such as the Strand Hotel –  have been beautifully renovated, and the overall impression is one of dense colonial grandeur. It feels ironic, when the Burmese fought so hard to escape British influence, but more than half a century of stagnation and cultural isolation means that some things have remained very much as they were in 1948.

Raj-era British buildings dot the downtown, especially near the waterfront

The Secretariat Building is the former home of the administrative functions of the British Raj. Currently unused, some parts of it are undergoing renovation, while others are exemplars of atmospheric decay

It’s common to see elegant buildings such as these heavily repurposed 

The bar at the Strand Hotel is an outpost of quiet western luxury among the bustle of the nearby street markets. Sadly the bar is concealing the epic longyis that the bartenders and waitstaff are sporting

Hemingway would have been comfortable here

Yangon is a surprisingly walkable city since scooters and motorcycles appear to be banned within city limits, so we spent several days simply wandering around. The combination of friendly people, a complete lack of street crime, and a (justified) distrust of most of the existing travel advice on the city were all contributing factors. We spent some time taking in public parks, exploring tiny museums, and looking for things out of the ordinary, and were handsomely rewarded for our efforts.

Inya Lake in northern Yangon is ringed by promenades ideal for strolling. There is also a yacht club which, although deficient in yachts, serves as a social hub for the wealthy and powerful in the city

We found a synagogue near where we were staying in Yangon which provided an interesting contrast to the buddhist temples. There’s actually a strong Israel-Myanmar connection dating back to the early years of both countries’ independent histories

For those historians who collect awkward photos of Khrushchev, we submit this glorious specimen. During the early years of independence, Myanmar was aggressively courted as an ally by both the USA and the USSR

Back to the Grease – But This Time It’s Tangy!

Just when we thought we’d tried pretty much everything, Myanmar threw a heap of new surprises our way. Ingredients were mostly familiar – Indian spices, bitter fruits, and loads of rice and noodles. But flavors were totally different from anything we’d tried before, with tangy, tongue-tingling, fermented ingredients heavily deployed at every opportunity, often accompanied by a large dose of peppery spice.

As in all of our favorite countries, the food was both cheap and abundant, with food stalls sprouting up wherever they could find 5 feet of space. This naturally led to a lot of experimentation – and admittedly a few regrets, given that we were in entirely uncharted territory most of the time. By the time we left Yangon, though, we were starting to get a sense for what we liked, and by the time we left Myanmar we had developed quite a passion for Myanmar cuisine. Sadly for us, our cravings are likely to go unsatisfied for the foreseeable future, since Myanmar restaurants are not a thing as of yet in New York. (Could this be the next trend? Here’s to hoping…)

Breakfast in Myanmar is taken very seriously. Typically some sort of noodles with spicy fermented fish or chicken, egg, some exciting pickles, and a bowl of soup for extra hydration / salt dosing. Coconut milk adds an extra comfort factor when it’s cold outside

Later in the day, the typical meal consists of a massive array of curries, soups and fried dishes along with a plate of raw veg that purports to be for health, but really seems to just be a tool for people to scoop more fermented fish paste into their mouths

Ethan spent the first few days hunting madly for “Rangoon crepes,” and was gratified to find something savory that actually fulfilled the requirement for the ultimate Hunter Thompson power breakfast

Fermented fish paste is a particularly fundamental component of the cooking style of Rakhine State in the Southwest. Unlike many similar pastes, however, this one is bit “grainy” and not for the faint of heart. Very tasty though if you make it past the texture!

A full spread of Rakhine-style food, reflecting many different influences: stir-fried meats with herbs and chilies from Thailand, biryani-type rice dishes and seafood curries from India, and stir-fried vegetables in Chinese styles

Grilled fish are a popular delicacy, and an incredibly affordable one. This delicious monster stuffed us both for about $2

95% efficiency!

Ethan would like it to be known that Hitler was a vegetarian – sanskrit tofu symbolism

One thing a visitor to Myanmar will quickly pick up on is the generous application of the term “salad” to a whole host of extremely unhealthy, non-salad-like meals. During our stay, we enjoyed a samosa “salad”, comprised mostly of broken up samosas and cream, a couple of rice “salads”, which were essentially just stir fried rice, and quite a few vegetable “salads” which turned out to be mostly deep fried peanuts, broad beans, and chickpeas, tossed in extra oil for good measure, with a few fermented leaves sprinkled on the top. These were delicious without exception, but did require a few extra workout sessions and a couple of digestion-assisting naps.

A scrumptious “samosa salad”…

… the mythical “fried chicken salad”

Frankly, our western tastes could not quite stretch to the weird and wonderful desserts of Myanmar. We choked down a number of specialties in the name of experimentation, and unanimously hated everything.

If you don’t get enough rice during your meal, dessert is more rice – pressed into slimy cubes and served with coconut and very sweet syrup

This “interesting” concoction of coconut, sweetened milk, jelly, gummy worms, and bread (!) – which we affectionately dubbed “clown vomit” – was truly horrendous

A Jaunt in Countryside

After nearly a week of urban adventuring we figured it was time to explore the further-flung regions of Yangon, and we signed ourselves up for a bike ride in the agricultural area north of the city. The group turned out to be comprised of a few regulars as well as tourists, and the whole thing ended up being hard work since we were seriously outclassed on the cycling, but we got to meet a few interesting expats and see a slice of life that we wouldn’t have otherwise.

A rubber plantation in action. Latex is collected from thousands of trees and pressed into sheets in metal rollers

The sheets are left out to dry, and then transported onwards for vulcanization and eventual sale

This is the reservoir that supplies Yangon’s drinking water. Likely a bit saltier now due to all the sweat we were dripping

Note her quivering lip and the signs of barely-suppressed misery. It was not an easy climb

Bagan

Ask anyone who’s been to Myanmar for their trip highlights, and Bagan is certain to be one of the first places they mention. It’s virtually obligatory to spend a few days there while touring the country – and for good reason. Stretching out over a vast plain in the center of the country, Bagan is history come to life, a collection of several thousand ancient temples dating back nearly a millennium. Billed as one of the world’s top archaeological sites, it’s one of the few places we visited this year that truly lived up to the hype.

The area around Bagan is dominated by agriculture, so the temples stand out as the only tall buildings for miles around

Bagan was for several centuries the capital of a wealthy, cosmopolitan, and highly-educated kingdom, during which time more than 10,000 religious monuments were built in the area. An inevitable Mongol invasion, coupled with a few-hundred earthquakes in the intervening years, mean that the bulk of these are no longer standing, but more than 2,000 remain. Work is ongoing to preserve and restore the most significant temples, but many are still untouched.

Despite being a magnet for any visitor in Myanmar, and despite being a town with very little else going on aside from the tourist industry, Bagan felt surprisingly authentic. For us, the key to Bagan’s charm was in the lack of intervention by the government / UNESCO / anyone else to produce a more “managed” tourist experience. There were almost no blurbs on each temple, there were no helpful pamphlets, and for the most part there were no restrictions on exploring the sites. We simply rented a few creaky bikes (for a very reasonable $1 per day) and pedaled our way across town, stopping to investigate anything particularly mysterious or beautiful we saw along the way.

There were ample signs of creeping commercialization – from the hawkers camping out at the most popular temples brandishing longyis and terracotta bowls, to the slick-looking Italian restaurant around the corner from our hotel (serving criminally bad risotto, but at least they tried). Overall, though, we felt a real sense of adventure in Bagan, and it still felt unspoiled – from the crumbling beauty of the temples to the genuine, un-jaded warmth of literally everyone we met.

We stepped off the bus in the early hours, to be greeted by a particularly misty morning – atmospheric, but not great for temple photos

In one direction, fearsome-dragon-stupa…

…behind us, some rather less intimidating locals

J Crew does Indiana Jones

Bagan is one of the hottest places in Myanmar – and we’d chosen the warmest part of the year to visit. Covered shoulders and legs are a must when temple viewing, hence our pained expressions and sweaty brows in many of the following photos

Styles vary considerably between temples – this looked like a Buddhist, Gothic version of a country church

Many of the hollow temples – like the famous Thatbyinnyu Temple – are built in the shape of a cross, with four entrances and a Buddha facing in each direction

Some much-needed downtime by the Irawaddy River, where we drank a beer on a guy’s front porch while he took a nap

The “Westminster Abbey of Burma”, Ananda Temple

The inside is spectacularly restored, replete with gold, towering Buddhas, and delicate frescoes

Sadly the interiors are slightly deficient in drumming, but in all other respects Bagan provides the ideal temple adventurer fantasy

For most of our time in Bagan, we were blissfully unaware of most of the other tourists biking around the place – after all, the temples are spread over a huge area, and there are more than enough of them to go around. All of this changed at around 5pm, when we decided to follow the advice we’d been given and head to the tallest pagoda for some blissful sunset viewing. Beautiful it was, blissful it was not – in fact, it was kind of scary, since we were perched atop a steep stone structure with a few hundred other people all elbowing each other out of the way to make space for their perfect Instagram shot. If we had a do-over, we would instead choose one of the lesser-visited tall pagodas, of which there are literally hundreds, for our romantic moment.

Eagerly watching the sun as it slowly descends – along with every other tourist in Bagan

Jess had to climb up the wall of the pagoda to get this one

The madness is beginning to set in…if you can’t beat them, join them?

An authentic taste of home in Bagan? Fortunately Wetherspoon’s haven’t yet made it quite this far in their steady march towards world domination

Stocking up on some “Okies”, “Chips”, and “Gaps” for the next day – not-so-cunningly disguised copyright infringement is a common theme in Myanmar

Temples aside, the best thing about Bagan: tamarind flakes. Wafer-thin golden sweet-and-sour discs of joy

On our second day of exploring we felt a little bit braver, so we ventured out of Old Bagan and into the miles and miles of farmland that lie beyond. Although the paths were bumpy and dusty (to the point that we had to walk our bikes through several sand dunes), and we spend nearly an hour lost in a maze of fields, the effort was worth it – along with some spectacular must-sees, we found a whole host of cobweb-ridden, bat-infested temples that begged to be investigated, and offered a real slice of tranquility.

Dodging goats along hot, dusty paths

Stupas everywhere…wait, haven’t we seen this one before?

Some of the pagodas have climbable exteriors (such as the one we visited for sunset)

The climb is more of a rock scramble than anything

The hulking malevolence of some of these massive temples at points overwhelmed the brightness of the day, and we occasionally found ourselves wondering if they sprouted giant eyes of flame above their spires during particularly tense moments

Just imagine this thing in the dark…

Several of the temple interiors displayed some seriously impressive murals

For reasons we don’t quite understand, all backpackers in Southeast Asia (including us) are absolutely obsessed by reclining buddhas. Getting one into a photo can be a challenge though, stretching the iphone field of view to the outer limit, and typically requiring some acrobatic climbing