In the Tasty Footsteps of Ancient Rulers (Northern Thailand)

Thailand was the first place we visited with a culinary scene to rival Italy’s, but in fact the Italy analogy extends beyond just food. Thailand possesses a rich heritage owing to to the once-thriving city states which came together to form the modern nation, and our ventures north brought this depth of character into the spotlight. Most notably, the latter half of our trip turned out to involve masses of temples, ranging from the pristine to the shattered but gorgeous – all testament to centuries of prosperity and power grabbing. Ayutthaya proved to us yet again that in Thailand, touristy doesn’t have to mean overcrowded or soulless. And Chiang Mai, another well-known stop on the tourist trail, gave us a glimpse of the beautiful – and highly distinctive – mountainous north of the country. In between some aggressive sightseeing, we continued to delight in feasting on as much local food as we could lay our hands on, and some novel international influences kept us eager for more.

The Venice of the East (for Real This Time!)

While we’d heard this moniker in various forms more than a few times, this was the first place that actually earned it. Ayutthaya is a city just a few hours upriver from Bangkok that served as the capital of the Siamese kingdom until it was brutally sacked by the Burmese in the 18th century, whereupon the capital was moved southwards. Ayutthaya anchored an enormous delta of rice paddies, a massive army that dominated the surrounding region, and a vibrant trade empire that expanded rapidly into the void left by the insularity of the Chinese Ming Dynasty. We were stunned to learn that the city likely had a population of around a million by 1700, making it one of the largest cities in the world at that time.

Today the remnants of the city’s ancient glory comprise miles of extremely photogenic piles of rubble – on top of the Burmese pillaging and burning, these colossal stone temples bear the legacy of centuries of weathering and neglect. It should be noted that the Burmese did such a through job of destroying this once-illustrious city that some suggest the attack is partly responsible for lingering ill-feeling between the countries today. Although the ruins are hugely impressive in a looming, eerie kind of way, it’s hard to picture their former, opulent, heavily gilded glory.

3… 2… 1… Liftoff: the prang / ancient stone missile

While the Burmese invasion destroyed many of the statues and adornments on the temples, there are still some visually stunning remnants in various poses

Tranquilly meditating through it all

Ayutthaya is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and today huge efforts are being made to preserve what remains of the ancient city. We visited a couple of museums in town which housed small, closely-guarded collections of stunning opulence, recovered from deep within certain temples (sadly, security is such that we couldn’t take any photos of the really good stuff)

Hang loose, dude

Many Buddha statues were hastily destroyed during the Burmese attack, but retain both religious and symbolic significance as vivid examples of the carnage that engulfed the city

Amazingly this dismembered head was absorbed into a tangle of tree roots over the centuries

Much of Thailand is blanketed with stupas (the pointy ones), the bane of any attacking paratroopers

In its time, Ayutthaya was a huge, energetic, entrepreneurial, and multicultural hub. Traders were welcomed from all over the world, and were largely allowed to live life the way they wished to – so long as non-Buddhists stuck to their own side of the river and didn’t corrupt good Siamese citizens. The Portuguese were initially the most important influence, but in time the Dutch emerged as leading traders via their close relationship with the royal family. We were able to see the remnants of small European communities (and enjoy some excellent Dutch meatballs) just across the water from the city center. As you might expect, there was also a huge Chinese presence, and in this case plenty of mixing – and assimilation – was inevitable.

Canal-crossed, Chinese-influenced Ayutthaya was and still is the hub for boat noodles – small, flavorful, and incredibly cheap, and kind of like the wallet pizza of Southeast Asia

A more modern product of international influence? Some of the best pasta we’ve had in months, served with some firm tofu, Thai basil, and a bit of a kick – at a tiny, unassuming hole-in-the-wall restaurant with two tables, attached to our chef’s house

It goes without saying that we also had to try the “American Fried Rice”, a rather less appealing fusion dish dreamed up via attempts to recreate American home cooking for military personnel stationed in Thailand during the Vietnam war. The secret ingredient is ketchup

Incomplete, imperfect Ayutthaya turned out to be a thoroughly fun place to spend a few days – and for us, this was entirely due to the fact that it hasn’t been completely turned into an outdoor museum. Amidst all of the imposing ruins, a buzzing university town thrives, filling the city with young, interesting people who have no need to pander to tourists. We found ourselves dipping in for a few hours of temple touring, before retreating to a cute (and mercifully air conditioned) coffee bar, or a busy snack stall.

Hipster bars abound in the vicinity of students, and we took full advantage. To complete the university throwback, we were treated to a rendition of “Wonderwall” (which seems to be a favorite in Thailand)

A busy public park right in the center of it all, which became one of our more epic workout spots

Alive and well, also, is the Buddhist faith in Ayutthaya. Several temples have either been rebuilt around charred remains, or preserved entirely. On a few of the complexes, the ancient ruins blend into the new construction most beautifully.

Wat Thammikarat is a sprawling site comprising both old and new buildings (some of which supposedly predate Ayutthaya itself), and we were welcomed by a gang of extremely hospitable monks

It is traditional to bring roosters as an offering – we later found out that this stems from a legendary, triumphant cock fight between the prince of Ayutthaya and (unsurprisingly) the prince of Burma

Mostly modern – but nonetheless astounding – Wat Phanan Choeng houses a truly gigantic Buddha. This Chinese temple has existed in some form since the 14th century

To round out the international feel, a little New Orleans flair

Outside, we were greeted by a catfish frenzy. Feeding the fish is a way of making merit for Buddhist visitors, but we feared that those who stepped too close to the water would never be seen again

Our departure from Ayutthaya involved yet another overnight bus, and… an impromptu car-based rave?

Apparently this is a thing in Thailand. Drivers get together, hook up some massive speakers, and let their best disco lights shine for the world to see

Expat Elephant Extravaganza

Chiang Mai is the main city in the largely-rural north of Thailand, and it has a very distinct feel compared with cities further south. The Lan Na kingdom – ruled over from Chiang Mai – was one of the strongest and most enduring of Thailand’s ancient city states, and despite being part of a unified country for more than a century, residents of Chiang Mai remain fiercely rebellious. They consider themselves to be more laid back, edgier, and more friendly than the southerners, and naturally they put their own delicious spin on Thai food (with hints of historical Chinese and Burmese influences).

King Mengrai, the founder of the city, hanging with his buddies and fellow northern rulers the King of Sukothai and the King of Payao – together, they designed and built Chiang Mai in the 13th century

Wat Hua Kuang – Chiang Mai, all squeezed into one frame: elephant, dragons, gold, vermilion, stupa, and gables

Chiang Mai is deservedly one of the three main tourist destinations in Thailand, despite being in the middle of nowhere. In fact, it seems that visitors find the unpretentious atmosphere, cooler northern climes, and low cost of living so attractive that many move their permanently. It’s a much cozier, more manageable city than Bangkok, and the generous smattering of temples throughout the city lends it a wonderful atmosphere. Moreover, we got the feeling that city is enjoying something of a virtuous cycle, since entrepreneurial immigrants are taking it upon themselves to introduce new bar concepts, music festivals, and international food, which add to Chiang Mai’s credentials as an offbeat, fashionable destination.

If you think this room looks like an English B&B, you’d be right. In accordance with the hipster / expat overlap, we found an England-themed guesthouse which, although pretty authentic, sadly lacked the necessary marmite

Our first vegan propaganda graffiti

This wasn’t staged or anything

You’re never far from lush jungle foliage and amazing stonework, even in this coffee shop (if you would believe it)

We’ve said Thailand injects its own flavor into everything, and even the titans of multinational branding aren’t exempt

If You Teach a Man to Fish…

One of the highlights of our time in Chiang Mai was when we took a half-day Thai Massage instruction class. Massage is huge in Thailand, and most tourists wisely avail themselves of the cheap and excellent neck, back, and foot massages. Thinking long-term, we congratulated ourselves for being savvy and spending a bit more in return for a lifetime of good massages by learning the art for ourselves.

We did end up learning the basics of of how to knead flesh and punish nerves. What we also learned, however, is that it takes a lot of practice, and we’re still in the “inflicting pain” part of the skill spectrum. Perhaps the funniest part was when our instructor told us that as “huge westerners” we should avoid standing or kneeling on our clients’ backs, which are both common techniques that diminutive Thai masseuses use to apply more pressure, but dangerous for people of occidental dimensions.

Just a pleasant stretch with a couple knees jammed into the small of your back – we think we’ve learned the basics, but there’s definitely some room for smoothing our techniques out with a lot more practice

Welcome to the Jungle

Chiang Mai is nestled among the mountains, and consequently excellent hiking opportunities abound. We took a long trek up from the city to the Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, a beautiful temple complex in which the architects seemed intent on applying enough bling to one-up the stunning vistas all around. While the hike was physically manageable, it was a very hot day, and it ended up being a lot more taxing than we expected – particularly after a few changes of path and sundry cartographic disputes.

Temples dot the hill on the way up, providing refuges of silent contemplation for monks, albeit punctuated by the heavy panting of exhausted hikers

Making clothes for stone statues is a common activity across many parts of Asia

Inspirational spiritual guidance, or practical commentary on our hiking ability?

The summit stupa and focus of countless selfies

Tasty Terrestrial Treats

Surrounded as it is by rural highlands, and situated rather far from the sea, the ingredients of Chiang Mai cooking are somewhat different from those of other parts of Thailand. The local cuisine is focused on heartier, warming food, and uses loads of fruits and vegetables, including many exotic varieties that we’d never seen before. Chiang Mai also provided our first taste of the fermented, sour flavors popular throughout Myanmar (on which more in future posts…). Most interestingly for us, this was not your typical Thai food – most of the local delicacies we tried in Chiang Mai were unlike anything we’d had before, even several weeks into a trip around the country.

Khao Soi, the classic Chiang Mai dish, is a delectable combination of rich chicken-coconut broth, braised chicken, chewy wheat noodles, and deep-fried crispy bits, generously suffused with chilies

The Matron of Meat – a purveyor of all things fleshy and tasty, including the spicy “Sai Oua” (Chiang Mai Sausage), which is laced with lemongrass, ginger, and other ubiquitous Thai flavors

Near the center of town we stumbled across a series of what must be the finest grilled chicken restaurants in the world – doling out thickets of scrumptious chicken lollipops

Although seafood is scarce this far inland, fermented crabs are a big deal – often sold in paste form to go with bitter fruits, or green veg

Putting those tangy, fermented flavors to work – pomelo salad has a gentle texture and a heavy citrus punch

Although central Chiang Mai is stuffed with tourists, we were lucky enough to visit a seemingly undiscovered corner hosting a busy morning market – note the pre-packaged herb mixes for curries and tom yum soups

Catching a quick nap after a long morning selling palm

Although perhaps the ultimate extreme of unhealthy snacks, fried pork skin does support justification among the low-carb crowd. It’s one of the famous foods of Chaing Mai, and is churned out in mini hole-in-the-wall production lines like this one all over the city

Congee (rice porridge) served with a bit of extra Thai flair – a variety of crispy, salty, and spicy adornments, and a monster coffee

At last, the vaunted durian in the pulp – banned via the Geneva Convention from subways, aircraft, and hotels, and possessed of a particularly cloying odor of rotting flesh, the actual taste is somewhat better than expected, but only somewhat

Moseying to Make Merit

The core of Chiang Mai is still recognizable as the walled city that was founded some 700 years ago, and more than thirty remarkably well-preserved temples lie within the ancient perimeter. The temples are varied, opulent, and full of character – in most cases they were built by new kings who wanted to make their mark on the city, and some are repurposed royal palaces.  Many of these structures have developed their own legends over time, adding an extra layer of intrigue to some already thoroughly impressive sights.

The city wall was mostly destroyed by the Japanese during WW2 (they wanted to repurpose the bricks) but is has since been carefully restored

Testing the strength of our antimalarials beside the city’s moat

Wat Lok Molee, which dates from the mid-1300s, and improbably sustains an aura of contemplative quiet adjacent to a busy thoroughfare

Swinejoyment

One of the best parts of temples is all of the mini gardens and fountains within, some containing particularly interesting creatures like these massive albino frogs

Wat Ratchamontian has one of the most impressive facades, looming over the street and guarded by a couple of fearsome dragons

Wat Kun Kha Ma i.e. the Horse Temple, for obvious reasons

Some of the dragons had a very pronounced Chinese flair to them, and also resembled those we saw in temples in Kathmandu

The canine equivalent of the cool side of the pillow is a stone floor under an awning amidst the searing tropics

Wat Chiang Man is the oldest temple in the city, built on the spot where King Mengrai lived during the construction of Chiang Mai. The city’s obsession with elephants is on full display

Wat Phra Singh – the “Lion Buddha” housed within isn’t quite as lion-esque as we’d hoped, but it is said to hail from the Indian temple where Buddha gained enlightenment

The most impressive stupa of all, and one that was physically painful to look at in the blazing sun

In a city of temples, product differentiation and branding become important and quite creative, especially when focused on the key features that temple pilgrims require – here, a lengthy guide to the bathroom facilities, in glossy pamphlet form

You’re supposed to donate to the statue corresponding to the day of the week that you’re born. Since eight is an important number in buddhism, some creative folks came up with the idea of splitting wednesday into separate days for morning and evening to get to eight day weeks

In addition to the wonderfully ornate buildings, most temple complexes have excellent gardens which help keep you cool in the heat and provide great places for contemplation

Wat Pan Tao is a rare example of a wooden temple, complete with a nontraditional stupa of woven wood

Wat Chedi Luang is kind of a big deal, both figuratively and literally. The modesty police were out in full force.

The Sermon Hall is awe inspiring. You can’t point your feet towards the statues since it’s a sign of disrespect, so you can locate westerners by the cracking and popping sounds emanating from their hips as they stand up to leave after sitting in contortions for some time

It’s good luck to apply a tiny square of gold leaf to the mini-stupa assigned to your birth year and we weren’t missing any chances to make merit

The main attraction is an absolutely giant stupa – it currently stands at around 2/3 of its original height due to earthquake damage long ago, but even so it towers over most other buildings in the city

Although each temple looks pretty similar from a distance, up close the styles are often quite different, reflecting varied temple construction over hundreds of years, and attempts by builders to outdo what was already built

Swimming Through Crowds in Pursuit of the Noodles

Chiang Mai was one of the more touristy stops on our jaunt around Thailand. Fortunately we were able to escape when we needed to, since our hotel was in a further flung, more food / hipster coffee shop / wine bar oriented neighborhood (as always, we have our priorities straight). We did, however, indulge in a little bit of night market hopping, with great results.

Packed streets offered all of the fake sunglasses, elephant pants, and tasty fried delights we could ever wish for

Can you spell chicken with a “G?” Doesn’t matter, still tastes amazing

Noodle perfidy! A moment of distraction, and Jess is left with the dregs… this will not be forgotten

Multicourse meal on sticks: country fair meets rotisserie meets Thai rice artistry

When in Rome… The unsurprising but brilliantly executed ladyboy cabaret. “Rihanna” is spending some quality time with some very happy audience “volunteers” on stage

Add one more dining innovation to the Thailand column: plastic gloves for eating saucy hot wings without permanent finger coloration